Saturday, September 29, 2007

still broke and homeless (but in a posh temp house)

Good afternoon everyone! We are still poor and I'm still unemployed!!! yay!!
So, Durham is a really cute little college town. There are lots of pubs serving bangers and mash, mince pie, shepherd's pie, yorkshire pudding, and lots of other greasy goodness. Since Bret and I don't have a kitchen of our own, we must eat out for every meal. Needless to say, we have grown quite accustomed to British fare. Though restaurants are super expensive here. Everything is...

So, we still don't know if we have a flat yet. They take for freakin ever here to check the references, etc. I don't see why they wouldn't want us to live there, but anyway. Hopefully we'll hear something next week.

We thought our possible-soon-to-be flat was pretty good, minus the carpets, until we saw Jim and Kristen's pad, our new temp house. God they have amazing taste. They also live right in town, but the place is brand new. It's all Ikea-ed out and it's got these gorgeous hardwood floors, new kitchen and new bathroom. Luckily Bret and I get to sleep in the same room in temp house no. 2, so that's a plus. But it will be a real blow to have to hit up New Elvet. Sure, we pay much much less than they do, and we definately can't afford to pay more than the New Elvet spot, but it's no where near the poshness of Jim and Kristen's.

So since I've been compiling lists lately, I figure I'd continue on with the theme.
Today's list is Britain vs. USA.
Good stuff about Britain:
1. bacon and sausages (much better than America's). actually, breakfast in general is damn delicious here.
2. "Dentyl" mouthwash- this brand is amazing. You shake it and swash for 30 seconds. When you spit, the plaque collects in bits, and you have excellent breath for hours. No morning breath the next morning
3. outdoor aesthetics- let's face it, all of Europe is gorgeous. houses have colorful doors, ivy crawls up old stone mansions, and hanging baskets abound.
4. you can buy liquor in the grocery store (that's right- vodka, gin, the works...)
5. tesco, the walmart of britain, delivers groceries and other goodies to your house. Hello walmart, what are you waiting for???
6. public transportation is far more efficient. buses and trains are great.
7. less urban sprawl- more efficient city planning makes for easy movement for one place to the next.
8. old stuff in general. the history, the castles, the cathedrals...just beautiful. it's so romantic to hear the bells from the cathedral gonging away in the evening. So soothing and haunting at the same time.

Pros about the US:
1. stores don't close at 5. enough said.
2. everything is muuuuuccccchhhhhh cheaper. food, clothes, transportation, taxes, you name it, it's cheaper.
3. less beurocracy- this is a biased one. But the trillions of forms you have to fill out here for everything and waiting games that you have to play for a flat, a bank, a life really makes life less flowy, shall we say.
4. broader range of environments and weather. You can get hot, cold, medium, sunny, rainy, everything. here in britain, it's rainy and cold, and that's it.
5. family and friends....oh!!!!! the twins! kiki and roberto!!
6. size!! everything is bigger in the states. albeit, sometimes grotesquely big, but at other times, it just makes more sense. such as the washer and dryer. the fridge, everything, really.
7. when you rent a place in the states, it comes with everything, including a closet, and appliances. this is a rarity in Britain.
8. you are not charged for having a bank account.

Monday, September 24, 2007

We may have a flat...

goodness gracious folks! it's been a stressful start here in the northeast. we are currently residing in temporary accomodations at an astronomer's house. it is a less-than-ideal situation because we cannot unpack and bret and i are in separate rooms. however, we are grateful that we are not out in the rain.

england and the US are similar in many respects of course, but there are lots of details that are completely different. here is a list:
1. one must pay 6£ a month to have a bank account.
2. one must pay 150£ to have a background check done if you want to rent a property
3. one must pay a council tax for renting in a property; 50£ a month
4. the routing number of a bank is called the sortcode
5. the checking account is called the current account
6. the 24 hour clock is used; not so much am and pm.
7. eating out at a restaurant is almost twice as expensive as in the US. that's right, a little sandwich (or 'butty') at a cafe is 5£ (10$).
8. yellow lines are not used to designate opposing traffic. white lines are used for both.
9. groceries are delivered to the house for a small charge (this is extremely wonderful)
10. many times a house will have a washing machine, but no dryer. and let me tell you, clothes does not try in 100% humidity.
11. there are no laundromats. none. it's not that we haven't found one. it's that they just don't exist.
12. most flats do not have closets. one must buy a 'wardrobe'...(special note: we have put in our 150£ application for a flat. a miracle: it has little closets!! but no fridge, dryer, or washing machine...)

Let me delve further into point number 12. yesterday, bret and i went to see two flats. they were quite a long walk, so we were hesitant from the start. but we were not expecting to receive so much unfortunate news. first, we get to a brand new flat- so new it's not finished.

then we go see another flat. it is in much worse condition- no fridge, unmatched piss-poor furniture, a hole on the attic, and mold on the walls. it's terrible, but it's finished. we ask how long it would take to get the flat after we have put in our application, and he said: 10-21 days!!! that's right. I don't know how it could take that long to check if someone has paid their rent in the past.

The prob is that our temp housing is only in place until Sept 30- so basically, we need new temp housing starting sunday. on top of that, add the background check time, and we're looking at the middle of october.

needless to say, we were very discouraged yesterday. luckily, bret's boss invited us to sunday dinner (really lunch, but it's a big wholesome English meal) and then we went shopping to Ikea.

God we love that store. We picked out all our furniture and budgeted, which put us in better spirits.

Today, however, we have really had luck. First we got our bank accounts hassle free. And then we checked out a cheap flat right in town that we really like. well, of course we'll have to get our appliances (the fridge will be the size of my armpit, as will the washer/dryer- they can come all-in-one here) but as I mention, there are closets!!

only thing is, the carpets are green. not funky astroturf green- I'm talking granny green. needless to say that the cool red couch that bret and i were planning on getting is out of the question. it would be horribly garrish. black would look too office building. white is a possibility- but they get dirty so quickly. although...we can get those ikea slipcovers...hmmm...

Wednesday, September 19, 2007

We Heart Ireland!!

Phew! Our last day of honeymooning before we go home to Durham. Our flight is tomorrow afternoon, and we are really excited to have a home.

But Ireland has been divine! We spent two days in Dublin and today in Galway. Both cities are adorable- colorful storefronts, cobblestone roads, and quaint homes. Galway is a bit more intimate than Dublin, and Dublin has terrible traffic in the morning when the children are going to school. It seems that there are only Catholic schools around here. All the teenagers wear uniforms like my St. Theresa one. The skirts go down way past the knee and the socks go up to the knee. Carmelites, I'm sure...

So when we arrived on Monday, we were exhausted. The flight was 6 hours, so it's not that bad. But we were still way off schedule. We were dying to sleep but we knew that we had to be disciplined. So we headed out to the bus stop. But no buses were coming. After an hour and a half, the bartender from our hotel told us that the schedule was not adjusted to each stop. So if we read that the bus left Rathcoole at 14:00, that meant that it would arrive at our stop (which was the second) at 2:15. We were told that this is the custom all over Europe, so that's good to know!

Here in Ireland, they also drive on the opposite side of the street as in the UK. Their food is quite similar to England's, but it has actually been really delicious. When we arrived in the city centre of Dublin, we got ourselves some fish pie, which was very tasty. All the "pub food" is comfort food: shephard's pie, bangers and mash, lamb stew. Needless to say, very heavy. I must be sure not to eat red meat at Every meal or I will get in poor health! Luckily, we will cook healthy foods and lots of veggie dishes in Durham.

Anyway, on Monday we just walked around the city. There are these two areas of Dublin in particular which are super happening: Temple Bar and Grafton Street. Temple Bar has lots of pubs and restaurants. Grafton street has the high end shops. think Lincoln Road Irish style. There is this super posh department store called Brown Thomas which has the most gorgeous stuff! At the end of Grafton, there is a lovely park.

So Monday evening, Bret and I went to eat dinner at an Italian restaurant. But I fell asleep at the table! We decided that with such an incident, it was time to go back to our suburban hotel. We went to the steam room, and by 9pm we were out!

After 13 hours of rest, Bret and I decided to go back into Dublin the next day to check out the National Museum. it was great- with lots of artifacts. There was a section of Viking Irish, and section of Medieval Irish, an Egyptian collection (no, not ancient Egyptian-Irish), and a section of preserved people. Very cool- they have been preserved in the peat bogs of the Irish countryside. They look like leather, all twisted and flattened. One guy was only there torso up- apparently he had been disemboweled.

Today, we went to Galway on the train. The trip is only 3 hours and there are fluffy white sheep, rolling green pastures, and grazing cattle throughout.

Overall, vacationing in Ireland is highly recommended. But remember to bring lots of sweaters! It is windy and cold!

Before I conclude, let me tell you about a few more random observations I have made:
1. most houses have lace curtains.
2. there are beautiful hanging baskets of flowers all over. And most houses have flowers spilling off their window sills.
3. The hot water and the cold water are opposite- hot water on the right, cold on the left
4. the buses are double-decker
5. the pedestrian walk signs are not white, but a green man, then a yellow, then a red. when it turns green, there is a sound like a torpedo indicating to the blind that it is safe to cross.
6. the odd bus schedule we have already gone over...
7. black is a very common color for clothes, especially in Dublin. Clothing is more colorful in Galway.
8. Scarf usage is rampant here
9. Men dress much better here.
10. headbands are not frequently worn around here as they are still worn in the states.

Remember to leave comments if you are so moved. We love to know who is reading the blog!

Sunday, September 16, 2007

Farewell USA

Greetings, all. Bret and I are currently stuck in JFK because we have too much luggage and the luggage storage is full. So instead of having a fun-filled day in the city (we were planning on hitting up the MET), we must patiently remain in the airport. We can't complain, I guess, cuz we've had a great time in NYC. Let me tell you about it.

We arrived on Thursday morning at LaGuardia, only to discover that taking a taxi to our hotel in New Jersey would cost 80 dollars plus tolls. Tormented, we decided we would try taking the bus. But a man with a limo was desperate for riders, and he offerred us the trip for a total of 60 dollars. It was a white stretch lincoln, with tinted windows, tacky inside lights, and beverages. We shared it with a group of Spaniards who were going to the Upper West Side, so we got to ride through all of Manhattan down to North Bergen, NJ. It was quite a sight, arriving at the Super 8 in a stretch limo.

After settling in to our ascetic lodging, we ventured out to the city because we had an appointment in Chelsea for a sensory-deprivation floatation tank experience. It's basically a meditative spa treatment in which one enters an encased soundproof tub filled with a trillion gallons of epsom salt. Because there is so much epsom salt, you can't help but float. It is set to skin temperature so that after some time, you can't feel the water, and it feels like you are just floating in air. This experience is not for the claustrophobic. It is pitch black in the tub and you are in there for one hour. But it was very relaxing for the both of us. Although I swear, I still have salt in my ears...

That evening, we went out to Astoria in Queens to have dinner with my friend Monje and her boyfriend. It was lovely. They took us to Cavo, a Greek fusion restaurant with very impressive decor and beautiful gardens. I find urban green spaces the absolute most beautiful kind because they truly seem like an oasis amidst all the industrial decay. Throughout NY there are rooftop gardens which are both aesthetically pleasing and an efficient usage of space. Though if Bret and I ever move to NYC, I doubt we would be able to afford rent in Manhattan. Queens, Brooklyn, or Jersey City seem more within our budget. It's odd, while I really love all the action of NYC, I find it disturbing that there is virtually no "middle class" there. It's either filthy rich or working class. It must be frustrating for many to think that the money they make in NY would go much farther anywhere else than it does there.

Anyway, the next day, we decided to take advantage of the wonderful weather and walk around as much as possible. We started off our day with a water taxi which took us to SoHo. There, we ate at a lovely Greek cafe (the day before, we had eaten delicious [and affordable] Slovenian), and went to Dean and Deluca for chocolate trufffles. Bret and i both strongly agreed that they were nothing next to the truffles from our wedding. Needing some consolation from our over-priced and under-delicious trufffles, we went to the Heartland Brewery and had a seasonal sampler of seven 5-ounce beers. Yum! For dinner, we met up with Hollis, Jessica, and Franz at The Russian Vodka Room in Midtown. This place is really a treat. It's a dark loud restaurant/ bar. There's a fat man playing dramatic Prokofiev and Rachmaninov on the piano. And the caviar is divine! Needless to say, this was our "special NY meal" in which we put our cheapness aside and splurged.

Yesterday was a great day, too. We wanted to check out Brooklyn, so we went to meet Franz in his Williamsburg neighborhood. He took us around the borough, and we got to see the cool hipster vibe of this upcoming area. It reminds me of the miami design district, but less brand-name. After checking that out a bit, we decided to go to eat at the Red Hook Latino food and futbol festival. Bret and I both decided that it was not nearly as cool as Zimern and Bourdain had said it was. But it was very lively. To end our Brooklyn adventure, we went back to Williamsburg where we sipped down a few at Barcade, the most awesome bar I've been to in a long time. Basically, they have all these retro arcade games for 25 cents a game. I went nuts with Dig Dug. And Bret kicked butt on super mario brothers.

After walking around for days, we finally sat down for an off-Broadway show. I wanted something unique, so a Broadway show was out. But at the same time, I didn't want some weirdo avant-garde bs, so I wanted to really check things out before we bought random tickets.

Well, we lucked out: go see Iphegenia 2.0! Well, if you can get a seat. We were the last ones called for the waiting list, and they are sold out until Oct 1. The play was an excellent post-modern remake of the ancient Greek tragedy of Agamemnon and Clytemnestra. It was smart, vibrant, and the acting was superb.

Goodness, this has gotten too long. My apologies. I hope to write shorter pieces more frequently. But as you may understand, NY wears one out! Talk again in Dublin. I think we can check our trillion bags in now.

Tuesday, September 11, 2007

Last Days of Splashy-Splash

Good afternoon from South Beach!

Right now, I (Bret) am sitting on the balcony of the South Beach condo watching the waves of the Atlantic crash onto the sandy shores as I reflect on the last several days Claudia and I have spent here. We've been working hard here: bronzing our skin under the summer sun, floating like boueys in the waters, and discussing the various cuisines that we have endulged in over the last few weeks of our honeymoon. But our time here in the Miami area is coming to an end, as we will soon (Thursday) be leaving for the "cold" New York City.

Since our last adventure, we have continued our mission to try the widest variety of local foods that the Miami area has to offer. Recently we visited Sheba Ethiopian restaurant in the design district, where Claudia and I inhaled the offered vegetable (including lentils, collard greens, split peas, etc.) and meat (lamb, chicken, beef, and vegetables) combination dishes, respectively. All meals come with spongy bread that (in combination with your hands) is used to eat the ordered dishes; silverware was not an acceptable option for us adventurers! After our meal, we enjoyed a very generously-filled glass of drambuie and headed to the streets to check out some of the local art.

When we originally arrived in the neighborhood, we were almost the only humans in the vicinity. But after we gorged ourselves with Ethiopian food and our chosen elixir and exited the building, we found ourselves in the midsts of a not-so-lame party. All of the dozen or so art galleries had opened their doors to the public and were offering free items (wine, water, etc) to try and lure people in. And of course, since I did not want to drive on a full stomach, we decided that it would be best to simply let the forces that be guide us into a few galleries to check out the art ... and maybe we would have a bit of wine to wash down the Ethiopian. All-in-all, Claudia and I give the Ethiopian restaurant and design district an enthusiastic thumbs up.

In addition to our Ethiopian experience, we recently enjoyed the virtues of being near a grandmother on Grandparent's Day. On Sunday, we celebrated this holiday with Claudia's Grandma Blanca, who invited us to her home (in Kendal) to enjoy some delicious home cooked filet mignon with vegetables and fluffy-yellow-cake dessert. In addition to this wonderful end of the week meal, we went out to the local mall to shop for some European-style clothing at Zara. As you can see from the picture at right, I am truly ready for my imminent move accross the pond.

Saturday, September 8, 2007

Honeymoon Part Deux: good eats, bike riding, and violent robberies

Peops, it's been awhile, I know. Bret and I have left the keys and we have been inhabiting the SoBe condo. It's a tough life, really. Waking up at our leisure, and going for a morning dip in the pool. Then eating a hearty breakfast from Wild Oats, the local organic grocery supply. After, we do our exercise for the day: either hit the downstairs gym, go for a beach jog, or bike ride around town.

After this strenuous morning, we choose a location for lunch. We have eaten at the Gourmet Carrot (a Jewish Kosher hotspot), a German restaurant, and the yummy cuban market next door. Sometimes we shop after. Other times, we hit the ocean waters. In the evening, we either cook delicious steaks with aioli, or go out to eat. Our most delicious dinners have been Pascal's on Ponce for our Miami Spice venture (lobster bisque, a fancy mini-Bouillabaise, and the best tiramisu ever) and Shoji, the most amazing Japanese food we've ever had. We ate tuna ceviche, lobster-mango sushi, and an assortment of eel rolls and different carpaccios from the sea. HIghly recommended.

This morning, however, started off a bit differently. As usual, Bret and I got up and ate our breakfast. But he decided he wanted to rollerblade. So he rented a pair (I already have a pair), and we went downstairs to put them on. Suddenly, we hear the most fearful cries coming from the street.

"Heeeeelllllllppppp!!!!!! Sooooommmmmeeeeeeoneeeee caaaaaaalllll theeeeee pooooliiiiiiiice!!!!!!"

It was horrible.

Being the rubberneck that I am, though, I flew towards the action. But I did not have my key with me, so I could not leave the apartment area. I had to go back and get it.

When I did, I saw the victims. Miraculously, they were not hurt.

Apparently, they were having a garden plot meeting across from the apartment, when suddenly a man tries to rob one of the garden plotter's cars. The owner of the vehicle runs out to stop him, but the robber tries to run him over!!! The victim is taken around the corner on the hood of the vehicle and the robber gets out of the car and attacks him with a crowbar. The victim dodges the hit and grabs his car. The robber runs off, unsuccessful.

After hearing the good news that no one was hurt, I went for a rollerblade (Bret is still working on his blade moves, so he stayed in the parking lot), and when I got back, I saw the security guard staring out into space, wide-eyed. I smiled at her, but she said that with the violent morning, she was too scared to even get some food next door.

At least we're in good hands...